Marc Jacobs is no stranger to creating some of the boldest, most talked-about and at times controversial looks for his New York Fashion Week runway shows. And this season is no different.
From gigantic colored dreadlocks to grungy top hats to colorful head scarves, the designer and Redken Global Creative Director and lead hairstylist Guido Palau always push the boundaries when it comes to the models’ hairstyles each season. This time, Jacobs wanted to play with hair accessories again, and put almost all of the models in hijab-like colorful scarves wrapped around their head and neck and wide brimmed black top hats.
“Eighty percent of the girls are wearing these beautiful, different black hats with scarves around their heads. got inspiration from the fashion when it came to the hats and scarves,” Palau said backstage before the show. “They make the wearer feel very dramatic and stylized and put together.”
The nine other models who weren’t wearing hats and scarves sported an even more dramatic hairstyle — which required quite a bit of commitment. Jacobs and Palau enlisted the help of renowned colorist Josh Wood to add pops of neon color to each woman’s hair which was chopped into ’60s-inspired ‘dos by Palau.
The team worked together day and night starting three days before the show to color match the color to be used on each models’ hair with the fabric of the clothing she would wear on the runway. “Marc was very particular about matching the color with what the girl was wearing so it feels like a total look,” Palau said.
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“We were working with a very ’60s haircut but the colors were quite late ’80s and early 90s-inspired,” Wood said of creating the perfect colors using a combination of Redken City Beats and Redken Color Gels Lacquers.
“I worked really closely with Marc with the fabrics that were being used in the collection, so there’s a relationship between the texture of the fabric and the color of the hair. There were literally thousands of fabric swatches and little pieces of hair trying to match the hair to the fabric.”
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The process of getting the “show-stopping, neon” colors just right wasn’t easy. “Although a lot of these looks that you see look quite simplistic, there were four or five, sometimes six processes on one head to be able to get such extreme color,” Wood revealed backstage.
When it came to the cuts, Palau pulled inspiration from the blunt haircuts that rose to popularity in the ’60s by British hairstylist Vidal Sassoon. “The shape is very extreme. They were cut very classically and not sort of broken up like you do a modern cut,” Palau said of his technique. “It is meant to feel very finished with the slight bend under at the ends.”
Even though the color and cut is meant for the show, Wood said the models have been loving their daring new ‘dos. “The models are all so thrilled and happy. It is like the new age of expressive hair color,” Wood said.
Lead makeup artist Diane Kendal carried over the monochromatic theme to the models’ makeup for the show by matching their jeweled, glitter-y smoky eyes to both their head wraps and outfits.
“So for the inspiration this season for Marc it was the celebration of fashion, going back to the roots of how people would create their own looks by getting accessories, shoes, bags, hats and do their makeup to create a character for themselves,” Kendal said. ” So we were trying to coordinate.”
While keeping the complexion minimal with light foundation and blush (she lightly dabbed on the Marc Jacobs Beauty lipstick in Scandal on the apples of the cheek), Kendal went for dramatic dark glitter jewel tones on the lids. “For the eyes we’re applying this glitter shadow and it’s like this pressed glitter. So I’m applying this first with my finger and then after I’ve done the rough shape, I dip my brush in with water and go back in with product to blend it out,” she said.
For the nails, lead manicurist Jin Soon Choi painted on nine different deep, jewel-toned metallic polishes from a limited edition Marc Jacobs Beauty collection (coming soon!) that perfectly tie into the rest of the look.